Can you put new insulation on top of old insulation?
You can absolutely new insulation over old insulation… as long as it isn't wet. Energy Star advises as follows: “If it… appears that the insulation [is wet or] has previously been wet, you should look for the cause and repair the problem to prevent a reoccurrence. Remove any wet insulation.
Unless your insulation is wet, moldy or infested with pests, you don't need to remove it before adding insulation on top of it. ENERGY STAR® recommends that you inspect your insulation for signs of mold, mildew, moisture and pest infiltration before making this determination.
It is possible to over-insulate your house so much that it can't breathe. The whole point of home insulation is to tightly seal your home's interior. But if it becomes too tightly sealed with too many layers of insulation, moisture can get trapped inside those layers. That's when mold starts to grow.
ABOUT INSULATION
The thermal barrier of a home should consist of a continuous layer of insulation on all sides—including the lowest floor, the exterior walls, and the ceiling or roof. Doubling the thickness of insulation will double the insulation's R-value, cutting heat loss in half.
Unless your home was specially constructed for energy efficiency, you can probably reduce your energy bills by adding more insulation. Many older homes have less insulation than homes built today, but even adding insulation to a newer home can pay for itself within a few years.
For most homeowners, upgrading an under-insulated home is well worth the expense. It's an improvement that will pay off in both reduced energy bills and improved home value—plus, there's the added benefit of reduced greenhouse gas emissions.
Unless damaged, it can last 80 to 100 years in most houses before it needs to be replaced. However, insulation can start falling from fiberglass batts after 15 to 20 years, so if your insulation was installed in batts well over a decade ago, it might be time for an inspection or a home energy audit.
If you have old paper based loose fill insulation, it may be a fire hazard, and as such you should look at getting it removed. Some people want to remove their fibre glass insulation also, either because they are allergic or because they don't want to breathe in the fibres when they are using the loft.
Insulating older homes is an all-or-nothing proposition. Just blowing insulation into the walls can create moisture problems that will rot the wood structure from the inside out.
If you find some insulation, cut out a 12- to 16-inch horizontal band of drywall or plaster midway up the wall. Then just pull out the old insulation. If you choose loose fill or expanding foam, it can go in through the same hole—though you'll need to make more holes along the top of the wall to complete the job."
Can you put insulation over existing walls?
With a small hole ranging from ½”-2”, certain types of insulation can be injected directly into a wall cavity. The three main materials used to insulate existing walls are cellulose, open cell spray foam and close cell spray foam.
Don't squash the insulation as this can reduce its thermal performance by over 50%. Don't install loft boards directly to joists or trusses. Don't remove any insulation as this can reduce the thermal performance of the loft. Check here for more loft boarding mistakes to avoid.
Gaps in insulation are known to have a major impact on heat loss and thermal bypass. It also can result in risks of condensation and mould; two things you want to avoid at all cost with a new dwelling.
It may sound counterintuitive, but yes, absolutely! Existing walls, in old houses and new, can be insulated using a fantastic technology called "drill and fill." (You can learn more about how we use the drill and fill technique on our Insulation page.
Vapor barriers are not required on both sides of insulation. They only need to be installed on the side of the insulation that faces the exterior. A vapor barrier provides a way to protect the integrity of your home. It keeps moisture out of the wall cavity and protects the insulation from getting wet.
To prevent heat loss, adding thick curtains to your windows is the ultimate solution. It is one of the cheapest techniques to insulate your home. Thermal blackout curtains will help contain the heat in your home. They consist of several layers, usually two to four.
It costs between $1 and $5 per square foot for insulation, depending on the type. A 1,500-square-foot home could cost between $1,500 and $7,500 to insulate.
Energy Performance Certificate Check. If you have an Energy Performance Certificate (EPC), you can check to see what type of walls you have. If they are cavity walls, the EPC can tell you if they have been previously filled. You can also see whether your property has a loft and whether it has been insulated.
Insulation sells all year round, but now that you know why Fall is the best time, you can keep an eye out for sale prices on insulation, and then install it when you and the weather are ready.
The average cost of home insulation is between $3,000 and $10,000 for a 2,000 square foot home or between $1.50 and $5.00 per square foot.
How much difference does new insulation make?
The EPA's research says that homeowners who have quality insulation in their homes can expect to see an average of 15 percent savings on their heating and cooling costs, and about a 25 percent reduction in total air infiltration. That adds up over time, saving you hundreds of dollars per year.
Most blown-in insulation materials will settle and lose R-value over time. Blown cellulose also tends to absorb water over time and will cause the insulation pieces to bond. Batt insulation is more moisture-resistant, so it will last longer.
- Your heating and air conditioning are working overtime. ...
- You have household pests. ...
- Your utility bills have increased for an unknown reason. ...
- Your home has suffered moisture intrusion. ...
- Your allergy symptoms are getting worse.
- Lingering unpleasant odors. Does your home (or parts of it) smell significantly unpleasant even after you've thoroughly cleaned? ...
- Worsening allergy symptoms. ...
- Water damage. ...
- An unanticipated rise in bills. ...
- Heating and cooling issues. ...
- Household pests.
A: There's no problem with installing fiberglass batts over your existing blown-in insulation. The only thing you want to make sure of is that you use "unfaced" insulation, meaning it doesn't have a paper or aluminum foil facing on the batts.
You should install two layers of insulation in your attic; wood joists must be covered to allow the air to move. The first layer will sit between the joists, and the second layer will run perpendicular over the joists. The first layer should have the facing against the drywall to act as a vapor barrier.
Adding storage will damage the insulation you added to the attic in the first place. Loose-fill insulation such as cellulose or fiberglass and blankets of fiberglass known as "batts" use the air trapped in small pockets or gaps in between the fibers or cells of the insulation to restrict heat transfer.